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#1
03-20-2006, 09:18 PM
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Sportster paint repair...
First step for this project will be to get the color dialed in..
A look in the color chip book shows some are close but not close enough... Next, to get a look at getting a computer generated paint formula. 
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#2
03-20-2006, 09:32 PM
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What happens is the sensor takes pictures of the sample and then the computer program figures out what amounts of different color tones need to be mixed..
The best news is this color can be made in one stage meaning it's not a complicated pearl requiering a midcoat etc. Since we're saving the artwork and pinstripes this means a easier time with less mils of material to manage..
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#5
03-27-2006, 06:19 AM
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shapeing with 80 then 180 wet/dry...
A chip will get fixed on the front fender and underneath theres the normal surface rust under the front fender these are famous for. It will get neutralized and repainted as well.
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#7
03-28-2006, 06:07 AM
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The front fender had it's share of chips and rust. Theres always more there than meets the eye. Here all the chips are sanded with 180 wet and treated with *Rustmort prior to priming with a epoxy primer.
__________________
www.milogarage.biz
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#8
03-31-2006, 07:39 AM
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And the replacment for the rear needs some leveling then everything will get primed at once
__________________
www.milogarage.biz
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#10
04-01-2006, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Hey BondoKing!, you know how it keeps the projects moving along when you post them..stay up bro!
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#11
04-05-2006, 09:09 AM
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Taking a couple days off after last weeks marathon paintathon was just what was needed to catch up on some rest,
and now after a fresh cup of joe  ... back to it ...The rear fender is sanded with 180 grit. Epoxy primer needs a bit of tooth to get a grip. The front fender even got a dose to the underside. Next the tank was masked so the primer only hits in the repair zone. Next they will sit 24 hours to cure fully and then a final prep session before color.
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#13
04-07-2006, 03:35 AM
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Nows a time to shoot a test panel to see how the paint is going to "behave' . In this case we'll use the undersides of the fenders to get a feel for how well the color hides and flows and of course how close is the match since the tank is to be blended saving the pin stripes and decals.
Best to know how it will act under pressure Careful scuffing and prep around edges is important even underneth.
__________________
www.milogarage.biz
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#15
04-08-2006, 05:35 AM
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A couple steps more before final paint and blending. The fenders are sealed with PPG's DBU color, a maroon that is a tad darker than the desired final color. The reason DBU is going on first is it uses a reactive reducer that will lock down the surface and get us better coverage with the final DBC base color.
On the tank filler opening flaking paint is cut and shaped even with a blade then rust treated and last brushed with PPG's DCD35 / DFX-11 clear with no reducer to be sure the edge doesn't lift from a solvent or fuel...
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#16
04-08-2006, 05:38 AM
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See these hands? These are the hands of a surgeon... ... do you know what that means?... ... That means that somewhere out there ... somewhere ... ...there is a doctor thats killing people
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#17
04-09-2006, 11:18 PM
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And now for the tricky part... ... To save the pin stripes and the decal.
After sanding the epoxy primer over the damage the tank is degreased with water and Ajax and then dulled of any gloss with FinalSand blend prep paste.
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...and a quick sand with 1000 on the base we shot the other day...
Linear Mode
